Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
